There’s something I love about the art of perseverance. Although we’re all born with differing capabilities I truly believe that anybody can get good at any skill with enough time, effort and perseverance. Personally, I prefer taking the longer, more difficult route to learning. When I’ve examined this I realise it’s because my philosophy is that if I can do something in difficult times/under difficult situations then I’ll be really good when the going gets easier. Surfing has been one of those things. Because I’m already a good swimmer, I’ve had no problem getting out the back and paddling to catch a wave, but oh my the pop-up has been a nightmare. Added to that the fact I don’t like the bigger, easier foamie boards as they completely overwhelm me (I’m only 5ft 4″) so I went for a more lightweight, slimline board to start out on (also more flighty, less stable, very responsive), which has made getting the pop-up a real challenge. For months I’ve had to do so much work on core strength, hip flexibility, balance and handstand drills on the yoga mat just to get to the point where I had the ability to POP my sorry carcass up on a board travelling along a wave. There’s been some spectacular wipeouts and so many almost-made-its. Then yesterday, on a new beach, where the waves were rough and choppy it took 30mins to get out the back so that I was already knackered, I caught a 4ft wave from the back and rode it all the way into shore. Words cannot describe how good that felt. I’ve written before about the ways in which I use different skills to aid the writing process: knitting helps with improving exactness and attention to details, mountain-biking helps me to pick a route and commit, cooking aids creativity on-the-hoof; and surfing’s taught me to not to quit, to keep learning and improving, and eventually I’ll get there. I’ve had similar feelings about my novel lately. Anyway here’s a pre-surf pic, just rewaxing the boards with some gorgeous organic surf wax from our new favourite eco-friendly surf shop @mothersurf_co – not an ad we just love their ethos AND even their wetsuits are from recycled materials. Legends. Catch you out in the waves ? #surf #womenwhosurf
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