I love him because he says ‘let’s get the bodyboards and surfboard and wetsuits out,’ even when the waves look a bit big. I love him because he can’t swim very well but still catches more waves than me. I love that we laugh so much we gulp saltwater and choke until it runs in rivers out of our noses. I have a bruised knee and two swollen big toes. We are such surf amateurs but we have so much fun. The only life plan we have these days is to stay on the road while it keeps feeling this good.