After more than a year on a bodyboard and sharing a borrowed surfboard, then picking up a cheap-yet-totally-unsuitable second-hand shortboard purely because it would fit in the van’s ‘garage’, as well as having a go on every other board someone might be mad enough to let me on, and hiring a couple of different sizes and shapes, and bothering everyone I know who surfs about board suitability, I finally settled on this quite lovely Mini Mal. She’s feisty enough that I’m gonna have to work to get good on her, but long enough that I can already catch decent waves and ‘nearly stand up properly’ – although foot positions still needs some work. I also chose this board because she’s gonna last me a good decade, and I believe that with the right care, she will.
Took her out today for the first time just as a crazy set of waves came in. It wasn’t pretty, and I was a bit terrified at the size of some of them but oh my! I am learning and smiling and feeling so good both mentally and physically. I realise how much I missed the mountain bikes because I just need that shot of adrenaline to keep me feeling happy and grounded. So here’s my new love who makes me want to spend even more time with the ocean, which can only be a good thing. I already know that we’re gonna have plenty of wild times together. Thanks so much to @magicboardcenter for all the help and advice. This not an ad – they’re just lovely, knowledgeable, helpful people. 📷 @andyrgarside 💙🌊🏄♀️🏄♂️💦